Day 81: A Spa Chat, Newstead Vineyard and Keurboomstrand Beach

by Margaret · Published March 27, 2019 · Updated March 30, 2019

When the kids and Teddy hit the breakfast buffet, I hit the spa and had the most interesting conversation with the therapist. She is a 20-something white chick from a small town in Botswana. Her view of the world fascinated me.

Here’s what she had to say about guests at this somewhat fancy hotel:

Brits: “They’re always so nice and so happy, I’m not sure why. Maybe because they’re on holiday away from the rain?”

Germans: “They’re very straightforward.”

South Africans: “Incredibly cold.”

Americans: “Rude.” [Described only receiving older guests 60+ who demanded this and that level of hospitality — I can totally picture a certain type of old, rich, pampered fancy “world traveler” American from DC or NYC demanding spa treatments].

Black American men: “We don’t get many [uh YEAH??], but when we do, the black women who work here think they’re very cute but say they’d never want to be with one. [Why?] They’re not *real* men because they’ve never lived in the bush.”

Asian-Americans: “We sometimes get Asian people here who speak American English! Now that is weird to see!”

She also mentioned she thought it was offensive that black Americans “try to pass themselves as African when they’re not — that’s really annoying to me.” I asked her to clarify what she meant, and she goes, “They call themselves African-Americans!! They’re not African! Why would they call themselves African?? I’m African! They’re Americans! It doesn’t make any sense!”

Fascinating.

She also said she found it amusing that people from outside Africa aren’t comfortable talking about someone’s race. I asked her what she meant and she mimicked a timid voice, presumably some European or American, coming in to the spa and trying to describe someone who worked there as “a, ehrm, dark-skinned lady.” She was cracking up. “Just say it! [So-and-so spa worker] is black! It’s so weird!”

After school — Willa was MUCH better today…no antidote like shame for this girl — we set out for Newstead Vineyard about 20 minutes away, closer to Keurboomstrand.

Newstead is a gorgeous spot for lunch owned by the Lund family. In fact, the vineyard logo says Newstead and underneath, “Lund Family Vineyard.” But we misread it as Land. Family. Vineyard. — As in, it’s our land, our family’s taking it as our vineyard.

(Can you tell we’re feeling totally conflicted?? Our precious NYC liberal woke sensibilities are on full assault in SA.)

The spot was perfectly styled/decorated. We had delicious G&Ts and a lovely cheese and meat spread with wine.

The kids made a friend in 7-year-old Lynn from Cape Town. They taught her Rat-A-Tat Cat and Four Corners, which made for peaceful eating among the grownups.

As we were leaving we chatted with the lovely owner, Sue. We bonded right away because she said that when the busy holiday season ends (April) she takes an annual trip to NYC for a jolt of energy. Love that. Stays at the Marlton.

She said her property was never intended as a restaurant, but one day a group of cyclists pedaled up and asked for lunch. She told them hers was a private home, but when they pressed, she agreed to rustle up some wine and cheese. They loved it so much they sent back more friends. And so it continued, until she hired “her chap” to build tables and chairs and now it’s a thriving must-stop in the area. Also a destination wedding place for couples from around the world.

She had two Jack Russells (Daisy and Bella) and a black lab named Louie. He’d been adopted a few months ago from a vet who couldn’t find a home for him. He’s eaten all the chickens, she said, but is otherwise the nicest boy we’ve ever met.

Sue pointed us down the road to Enrico’s for a sundowner, and we took her advice. The winding backroad took us through farms and vineyards toward the shore. Some truly spectacular beach houses here…

We ended up just parking and reading on a bench while the kids built a sandcastle for about an hour on the beach downhill.