Day 17: An Insane Luxury Train Experience Through the Andes
We left Lake Titicaca and took a totally over-the-top luxury overnight train from Puno to Cusco. Reader note: This is *not* how we’re doing this trip. This overnight luxury train for one night was a total special treat. It was as advertised.
Morning:
While I packed — getting that down to an art — the kids went with Teddy and Alberth back into the Lake Titicaca reeds since we couldn’t go yesterday.
What they saw blew everyone’s minds: Two different baby birds — an ibis and an Andean gull — both of which Alberth held for them to examine. (These two species do not abandon their young when humans touch them).
Alberth and
the Andean Gull baby
I mean
I didn’t get to see the kids’ faces live (I was packing), but the reaction when they came sprinting and shrieking back to the lodge told me everything I needed to know about their experience. Here’s a video of their experience in the Lake Titicaka reeds over the last two days.
By 10:30 am we were driving to Puno to catch our train.
Train
You guys. This train.
It’s a luxury vintage-style sleeper train that weaves through the Andes, and for anyone who likes 1) luxury 2) old-timey stuff 3) stunning views and/or 4) totally unique travel experiences, this should be on your bucket list.
First of all, since it’s not the high season for tourism here, there’s only one other couple on the entire train with us (a couple – he’s a Swiss Italian pharmacist, she’s a Spanish model), so we’ve got a crew of 28 serving us cocktails, canapes, opening doors, giving massages, doing cooking demonstrations and playing a baby grand….
The inside and exterior of the train look like a movie set. Every detail — brass vents, adorable 30s-style light switches, cozy lamps, two bars — is perfect. There’s even a spa.
The caboose is open air and attached to an observatory car. That’s where we spent most of the day, playing games, taking pictures, drawing, etc.
Cooking demo with the chef.
Meanwhile the landscape was so dramatic. High plateau of the Andes, which had everything from flat farmland to super steep grassy hills. It rained for part of the ride, which was cozy and added some fantastic light with dark clouds.
We made one stop to see the snow-capped mountain view and small chapel — and were swarmed by Peruvian grannies selling us scarves. I obviously bought one. I’ll never forget tall Lila, surrounded by hawkers who were pushing scarves in her face and yelling “Amiga! Amiga! Lady!” and Lila going “Now wait, wait, just wait. Now wait. Just wait.” Haha.
I obviously bought it.
Back on board we freshened up for dinner and sat at 7:30. Beautiful dining car.
This was obviously waaaay too late for the kids, and James fell asleep on the banquette. The ladies brought him a blanket. Everyone went to bed at 9:45.
Notes/thoughts/learnings:
- I was cringing a little at the luxuriousness of this experience, but funny how you can “get with the program” pretty quickly. So glad we did it. Also glad this isn’t how we’re doing the whole trip (not that that was an option).
- Willa has been so grown up lately. Her manners are getting better, her bravery has increased, her patience with little brother is better. I felt so proud of her today just watching her play games and observe things.
Miscellaneous extra pics:
Slide!! 
What the 
Blocks before dinner.
That train looks so mint. Definitely on my bucket list. I’m really enjoying the pics. Colors seem better than in America’s.
Big Sky trip is in two weeks. Burwell is on the IR, so the Humes took their place. Hopefully we can make it happen next year!
Safe travels!