Day 21: Exploring Cusco on Our Last Full Day in Peru

Today was super low-key. We bid farewell to the beautiful Sol y Luna and took a van 1.5 hours to Cusco.

Legs in the van

Cusco is historically rich, visually appealing – and very touristy. It’s a city of 500k people and tourism is the main industry, thanks to Machu Picchu. There’s a Starbucks, KFC, McDonald’s and even a Patagonia store…

We were told we’d be approached by local ladies in traditional dress for a few Sols to take a picture with their baby animals. It happened within the first 20 seconds of our arrival:

Touristy but whatever

New friends Greg and Bea from Lima recommended Bodega 138 for lunch, which is owned by Bea’s cousin. We were told it was excellent by Bea and by Fodor’s — but really, how good can a wood-burning oven pizza place be? (We’re New Yorkers, after all)

Answer: So, so good. Like, the best pizza we’ve ever had? Teddy and I shared one with gooseberries, arugula and ham. And because Bea knew we were there, she had her cousin send out some free desserts. VIP treatment.

It was Lobsy’s last day, so we had to do some shopping. Teddy and James dozed and strolled. Willa, who’s become poncho-obsessed, got a second one. I got a scarf.

We also toured the Cathedral of Cusco, erected by the Spanish in the 1500s on top of an Incan temple. There’s a giant oil painting of the last supper where the disciples are gathered around a feast of skinned chinchilla and corn beer. Altar after altar of gold and silver and intricately carved wood.

Lobsy lit a candle (a lightbulb candle — too much wood in there for real fire.)

Willa was curious and engaged about it all, especially all the bloody Jesuses.

No photos allowed, unfortunately.

For dinner we stayed at the hotel and toasted Lobsy’s last night with pisco sours and recapped the many highs and very few lows of the trip.

It’s felt like a vacation thanks to all the pre-arranged tours and outings and of course high-end livin.’ Tomorrow we say bye to Lobsy and fly to Santiago, where it’s back to “reality.” An Airbnb, few set plans, lots of homecooked meals, exercise and school!